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CHAPTER 4

LOVE YOUR LIPS
Pucker up and smile pretty.
 
Never underestimate the importance of doing your lips.  Wrong application or poor color choice can make or break your look!  And improper application of lipliner can make you look, well, ridiculous, especially if you lined your lips but didn't fill-in and your lipstick wears off, leaving you with an outlined mouth.
 
Even if you aren't used to (or don't like) a lot of color on your lips, at the very least apply a sheer lip creme or lip gloss.  If nothing else, it will protect your lips and keep the skin moist. 
 
PERFECTLY LINED LIPS
When lining your lips (see Perfect Lipliners) think about what your intentions are with regard to shape.  Do you want them to look the same size that they are, or do you want to enlarge or reduce the size of your upper, lower, or both lips.  If you intend to "over-draw" or "under-draw" your lip lines, apply some concealer to the outr edges first, this will give you a more natural look when lining with your Lipliner.  Also, make sure your upper and lower lines meet slightly at the corners of your mouth.  When you achieve your desired shape, and this is VERY important, FILL IN your lips with your liner!  That way if your lipstick or lip gloss wears off, your lips will still be covered and you won't be left with an outline!
 
 
 
PERFECT EYESHADOW EVERY TIME
 
Whether you're going for demure or smoldering, applying your Eyeshadow properly only looks difficult. First and foremost, if you want to apply your eyeshadow properly, get rid of your foam/sponge applicators.  To apply eyeshadow like a pro, you MUST use high quality brushes, the four most important are shown at right.
  1. Shading Brush - You will use this perfectly shaped brush to apply your eyeshadows on your entire upper eye, including eyelid, crease and browbone.
  2. Blending Brush - Use this soft, long-bristled brush to blend your eyeshadow colors together, and/or to apply highlighter eyeshadow to your browbone.
  3. Angle Brush -  This versatile brush can be used to apply eyeshadow as eyeliner, either wet or dry, on your upper and lower lids.
  4. Eyeliner Brush - For a finer, more detailed look, this brush has a very precise, thin tip.  Also great for pulling eyeliner out past the outer corner for a more "feline" look.
Note:  All of these brushes are available individually or in our TIGI Cosmetics Artisan Brush Roll (includes all 10 brushes).  Because it's so important to use the right tools when applying your makeup, we've discounted the prices on these brushes to make them more affordable to our clients, and we have a really great deal on the full Brush Roll.
 
ALL THE COLORS OF THE RAINBOW HAVE ME CONFUSED
 
TIGI High Density Eyeshadow Quad in LushChoosing the right eyeshadow colors to apply can sometimes feel like a daunting task.  With so many colors to choose from, it's hard to know which shades are best for your unique skin tone, eye and hair coloring.  There are lots of "rules" about which color palette suits you best, and the general rule-of-thumb is warmer hair and skin tones call for "autumn" colors, ashier tones call for a cooler "winter" palette, and so on. 
 
Personally, I think rules limit the possibilities of what you can create, and rules have no place in art.  For intsance, you may have heard the rule "don't use blue eyeshadow if you have blue eyes", yet I use the blue, magenta and peach colors in the TIGI's Lush Eyeshadow Quad often on blue eyed clients it looks fabulous.  So be tame or be daring, it's your choice.  You're the artist!
 
Makeup should be fun, not a laborious task.  So play with different shades, experiment with varying looks and techniques, and just have a good time with it. 
 
It's all about blending and the family of cosmetics you are choosing to use.  I know it's tempting to buy eyeshadows from different makeup lines when you see a hot new color you like, but it's really best to work with the colors available in ONE high quality product line.  Why?  High quality makeup lines like TIGI Cosmetics have color palettes that are far from random.  The colors they've chosen compliment and contrast each other perfectly, even colors that you normally wouldn't think go together can look fantastic when blended properly.  TIGI's also uses proprietary formulas that make their High Density Eyeshadows work best when used together, for superior blendability.  And when applying eyeshadow, it truly is all about the blending.
 
When choosing your eyeshadow colors, you can use anywhere from 2 to 4 shades.  I prefer to limit color choices to 3 (1 dark, 1 medium, 1 light), but sometimes I'll add a fourth color to overlay the eyeliner and enhance eye color.  For a simple, sophisticated look, use 2 colors:  Either a dark and a light shade, or a medium and a light shade.  But again, there are no rules, so experiment and create a look that's uniquely your own.
 
Did you know?  For a bolder look you can apply TIGI High Density Eyeshadows with a damp brush.  They can be used wet or dry! 
 
 
APPLYING, SHADING & BLENDING YOUR EYESHADOWS
 
Once you've decided on your eyeshadow color choices, you're ready to begin applying.  At this point, if you haven't already done so, apply your Perfect Eyeshadow Base before going any further.
 
Since there are so many different ways to apply your colors, I am only going to describe a basic everyday look that's quick and easy.  In future postings I will describe and show some more complicated looks and how to each them, but for now we'll stick to basics.
 

  1. Begin by using your base color, which in this case is the darkest of 3, but it can also be the color you want to show the most.  Use your Shading Brush to apply the shadow to your crease and halfway up your browbone, then pull some in across your eyelid, working it in from the outer corner of your lid inward, about a third of the way in.  It's ok if it looks like your creating "racoon" eyes, in fact it should look that way.  You will be blending your colors eventually, so the racoon look is only temporary.
  2. Now apply your medium color to the rest of your eyelid, again using your Shading Brush.  Just apply this color to the part of your lid that isn't already shadowed with your first color.
  3. Lightly dip your Blending Brush into your lightest (highlighting) color, and apply shadow to your browbone, up to your eyebrow.  At this point you should see the 3 different shades with distinct lines of demarcation between them.
  4. You can now use your Blending Brush, starting from the bottom of your lid, to pull your medium shade up, over and across your darker (or base) color, blending away the line of demarcation.  Pick up a slight amount of your highlighter shade and, starting at the inner corner of your eye, blend into your darker base shade. The result should look something like the photos to your right.
  5. As i did in the bottom photo to your right, you can use a contrasting eyeshadow shade and, with your Angle Brush, go over your eyeliner on your top lid, and pull some in onto the eyeliner on your bottom lid about a third of the way in.
As you can see from these photos, whether you're going for a demure look or something smoldering, it's all about blending.  The first time you use a Blending Brush you will understand why the right tools are so important when applying your eyeshadow.  Not only will your eyeshadow application look better, it will take you less time with fewer mistakes.
 
Note:  TIGI High Density Eyeshadows blend seemlessly with unprecidented slip, and I can't stress enough the importance of using eyeshadows from ONE makeup line that are meant to work well together.  Also, it is nearly impossible to create these kinds of looks using eyeshadow sponge applicators, so invest in a high quality set of makeup brushes like our TIGI Cosmetics Artisan Brush Roll.  If you take proper care of your them (washing them with a gentle shampoo often), your brushes will last for many years to come.
 
 
MADISON AVENUE WEST'S
TIGI Cosmetics Collections
 
To help take some of the guess work out of choosing the right shades of cosmetics, I have put several makeup collections together with the essential pieces needed to create a variety of looks within a cohesive color set.
 
All of the High Density Eyeshadows needed to create the looks shown above and many, many more are available in our TIGI New York City Nights Collection, along with 2 Decadent Lipsticks, a Lip Creme, 2 Perfect Eyeliners, a Glow Blush, a Mascara, and a Shading Brush. With this collection you can go from a low-key but professional daytime look, to a dramatic nightime look quickly and easily.
 
For a softer, more "glowy" look, check out our TIGI California Girls Collection. This collection is made up of beautiful soft shadows, blush, bronzer, concealer, lip colors and more. The California Girls Collection is a great "starter kit" to try out TIGI Cosmetics or to hone your skills with makeup.
 
 
 
CHAPTER 3
THE APPLES BELOW YOUR EYES