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CHAPTER 2

THE EYES HAVE IT
Your eyes are, themselves, a work of art.
 
Nature has given us all a unique eye shape and color, and specialized focus should be given to them to enhance their beauty since most people you engage with are looking at your eyes. Think of your eye makeup as a separate work of art within the work of art that is your overall face/look. As such, it's important to "frame" this work of art via eyebrow shaping and eyelining.
 
Assuming your eyebrows have already been shaped properly by tweezing, waxing, or otherwise, it's important to enhance and fill in your brows for a more finished look. For years I have used TIGI Eyebrow Pencil (blonde or brunette), but since discovering their new Brow Sculpting Duos (blonde or brunette), I much prefer using them rather than the pencils. Although, like the Concealer Pencils, Eyebrow Pencils are great for on-the-go.
 
TIGI Brow Sculpting Duos are unique and ultra-versatile. Each pot is split into two sides: One side contains a powder, the other a wax. To use TIGI's Brow Sculpting Duo, you have several options.

 

For best results when applying, I recommend using the TIGI Angle Brush, pictured at right.  It has a very precise, flat edge, so it's just right for this purpose.  It's perfect for applying eyeshadow over eyeliner, too.

  • For light shaping and fill-in, use the powder side by itself.
  • For a more sculpted look with shine and hold, use the wax only.
  • For a fully sculpted look, apply wax first, the go over and fill in with powder.

After shaping your brows, decide whehter you want to use an Eyeliner Pencil  or Eyeshadow to line your eyes.  If using Eyeshadow, first apply Perfect Eyeshadow Base to your entire upper eyelid all the way to the lash line, and along the lash line of your lower lid.  This will help hold your eyeshadow-liner in place.  If you're planning to use an Eyeliner Pencil, apply Perfect Eyeshadow Base to your entire upper eyelid, but leave a gap along your lash line.
 
I actually prefer to do a combination of both in most cases.  I usually line the eye with a Perfect Eyeliner Pencil in Black or Brown, then go over with either a shadow of the same color, or a bright High Density Eyeshadow for a splash of color at the lash line.  Although you can use a colored Eyeliner to begin with, I prefer to use a dark color with a shadow over it, this way you set up a dark, defining line that shows through somewhat under the eyeshadow liner.  An example of this technique is shown to your left.  You can ged a similar effect by using a Perfect Eyeliner Pencil in a color like Green, Blue, Peacock, or Royalty.
 
For a smokier finish, smudge the lower liner a bit with an Shading Brush or the built-in smudger on the "eraser" end of your Perfect Eyeliner Pencil.  Once you've finished applying your eyeliner and Eyeshadow Base, you're ready to begin your Eyeshadow application.
 
PERFECT EYESHADOW EVERY TIME
 
Whether you're going for demure or smoldering, applying your Eyeshadow properly only looks difficult. First and foremost, if you want to apply your eyeshadow properly, get rid of your foam/sponge applicators.  To apply eyeshadow like a pro, you MUST use high quality brushes, the four most important are shown at right.
  1. Shading Brush - You will use this perfectly shaped brush to apply your eyeshadows on your entire upper eye, including eyelid, crease and browbone.
  2. Blending Brush - Use this soft, long-bristled brush to blend your eyeshadow colors together, and/or to apply highlighter eyeshadow to your browbone.
  3. Angle Brush -  This versatile brush can be used to apply eyeshadow as eyeliner, either wet or dry, on your upper and lower lids.
  4. Eyeliner Brush - For a finer, more detailed look, this brush has a very precise, thin tip.  Also great for pulling eyeliner out past the outer corner for a more "feline" look.
Note:  All of these brushes are available individually or in our TIGI Cosmetics Artisan Brush Roll (includes all 10 brushes).  Because it's so important to use the right tools when applying your makeup, we've discounted the prices on these brushes to make them more affordable to our clients, and we have a really great deal on the full Brush Roll.
 
ALL THE COLORS OF THE RAINBOW HAVE ME CONFUSED
 
TIGI High Density Eyeshadow Quad in LushChoosing the right eyeshadow colors to apply can sometimes feel like a daunting task.  With so many colors to choose from, it's hard to know which shades are best for your unique skin tone, eye and hair coloring.  There are lots of "rules" about which color palette suits you best, and the general rule-of-thumb is warmer hair and skin tones call for "autumn" colors, ashier tones call for a cooler "winter" palette, and so on. 
 
Personally, I think rules limit the possibilities of what you can create, and rules have no place in art.  For intsance, you may have heard the rule "don't use blue eyeshadow if you have blue eyes", yet I use the blue, magenta and peach colors in the TIGI's Lush Eyeshadow Quad often on blue eyed clients it looks fabulous.  So be tame or be daring, it's your choice.  You're the artist!
 
Makeup should be fun, not a laborious task.  So play with different shades, experiment with varying looks and techniques, and just have a good time with it. 
 
It's all about blending and the family of cosmetics you are choosing to use.  I know it's tempting to buy eyeshadows from different makeup lines when you see a hot new color you like, but it's really best to work with the colors available in ONE high quality product line.  Why?  High quality makeup lines like TIGI Cosmetics have color palettes that are far from random.  The colors they've chosen compliment and contrast each other perfectly, even colors that you normally wouldn't think go together can look fantastic when blended properly.  TIGI's also uses proprietary formulas that make their High Density Eyeshadows work best when used together, for superior blendability.  And when applying eyeshadow, it truly is all about the blending.
 
When choosing your eyeshadow colors, you can use anywhere from 2 to 4 shades.  I prefer to limit color choices to 3 (1 dark, 1 medium, 1 light), but sometimes I'll add a fourth color to overlay the eyeliner and enhance eye color.  For a simple, sophisticated look, use 2 colors:  Either a dark and a light shade, or a medium and a light shade.  But again, there are no rules, so experiment and create a look that's uniquely your own.
 
Did you know?  For a bolder look you can apply TIGI High Density Eyeshadows with a damp brush.  They can be used wet or dry! 
 
 
APPLYING, SHADING & BLENDING YOUR EYESHADOWS
 
Once you've decided on your eyeshadow color choices, you're ready to begin applying.  At this point, if you haven't already done so, apply your Perfect Eyeshadow Base before going any further.
 
Since there are so many different ways to apply your colors, I am only going to describe a basic everyday look that's quick and easy.  In future postings I will describe and show some more complicated looks and how to each them, but for now we'll stick to basics.
 

  1. Begin by using your base color, which in this case is the darkest of 3, but it can also be the color you want to show the most.  Use your Shading Brush to apply the shadow to your crease and halfway up your browbone, then pull some in across your eyelid, working it in from the outer corner of your lid inward, about a third of the way in.  It's ok if it looks like your creating "racoon" eyes, in fact it should look that way.  You will be blending your colors eventually, so the racoon look is only temporary.
  2. Now apply your medium color to the rest of your eyelid, again using your Shading Brush.  Just apply this color to the part of your lid that isn't already shadowed with your first color.
  3. Lightly dip your Blending Brush into your lightest (highlighting) color, and apply shadow to your browbone, up to your eyebrow.  At this point you should see the 3 different shades with distinct lines of demarcation between them.
  4. You can now use your Blending Brush, starting from the bottom of your lid, to pull your medium shade up, over and across your darker (or base) color, blending away the line of demarcation.  Pick up a slight amount of your highlighter shade and, starting at the inner corner of your eye, blend into your darker base shade. The result should look something like the photos to your right.
  5. As i did in the bottom photo to your right, you can use a contrasting eyeshadow shade and, with your Angle Brush, go over your eyeliner on your top lid, and pull some in onto the eyeliner on your bottom lid about a third of the way in.
As you can see from these photos, whether you're going for a demure look or something smoldering, it's all about blending.  The first time you use a Blending Brush you will understand why the right tools are so important when applying your eyeshadow.  Not only will your eyeshadow application look better, it will take you less time with fewer mistakes.
 
Follow up with with Mascara, and your eyes are done!  For optimal results, we use and recommend TIGI Lash Love Black Mascara.  It has a great applicator brush, doesn't clump, and adds incredible length.
 
Note:  TIGI High Density Eyeshadows blend seemlessly with unprecidented slip, and I can't stress enough the importance of using eyeshadows from ONE makeup line that are meant to work well together.  Also, it is nearly impossible to create these kinds of looks using eyeshadow sponge applicators, so invest in a high quality set of makeup brushes like our TIGI Cosmetics Artisan Brush Roll.  If you take proper care of your them (washing them with a gentle shampoo often), your brushes will last for many years to come.
 
 
MADISON AVENUE WEST'S
TIGI Cosmetics Collections
 
To help take some of the guess work out of choosing the right shades of cosmetics, I have put several makeup collections together with the essential pieces needed to create a variety of looks within a cohesive color set.
 
All of the High Density Eyeshadows needed to create the looks shown above and many, many more are available in our TIGI New York City Nights Collection, along with 2 Decadent Lipsticks, a Lip Creme, 2 Perfect Eyeliners, a Glow Blush, a Mascara, and a Shading Brush. With this collection you can go from a low-key but professional daytime look, to a dramatic nightime look quickly and easily.
 
For a softer, more "glowy" look, check out our TIGI California Girls Collection. This collection is made up of beautiful soft shadows, blush, bronzer, concealer, lip colors and more. The California Girls Collection is a great "starter kit" to try out TIGI Cosmetics or to hone your skills with makeup.
 
 
 
CHAPTER 3
THE APPLES BELOW YOUR EYES

I'd love to hear from you if you have any questions or comments!
 

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